Whether you're just starting out on your critter journey or are a comfortable furparent, ourĀ Rabbit CareĀ guide covers everything you need to know for guinea pigs to have a healthy and happy life!
Basics
Scientific name: Oryctolagus cuniculus
Average life span: 7-10yrs (Mick is the oldest rabbit who lived to 16 years!)
Average weight: Varies between about 2-6kg, males are generally heavier than females. There is also a large variation between miniature and giant breeds.Ā
It is important to look at body condition score - ideally they should look slim and sleek, feel but not see the ribs, and dewlap and skin folds should not be so large they interfere with eating, grooming, urinary and digestive behaviours.Ā
Average birth weight: 30-80g
Gestation: 30-33days
Average litter size: 4-12Ā
Baby rabbit name: Kit
Male rabbit: Buck
Female rabbit: Doe
Basic Feeding Requirements
Rabbits were made to live on a diet composed of large quantities of grasses and leaves. They have a very complex digestive system, which can break down large amounts of fibre and extract the nutrients required for healthy body function. These days there are so many different commercial diets on the market, however some are much more suitable for rabbits than others. We recommend the following feeding guidelines for happy and healthy rabbits:Ā
- Water: Unlimited access to fresh waterĀ
- Hay: Unlimited amounts of grass hay should be offered on a daily basis. Alfalfa is suitable for young rabbits, but adults should eat only grass hays, such as timothy, orchard grass, oat, or meadow. Hay should make up about 85-90% of their diet. Long strands of grass and hay is also great for dental health, keeping the teeth worn and preventing them from overgrowing and causing further health issues.Ā
- Pellets: Small amount fed daily to provide additional extra fibre, vitamins and minerals. We recommend a high quality pellet such as BURGESS, OXBOW or BUNNY NATURE. Avoid pellets that are marketed for multiple species such as rabbits and guinea pigs, as they have different nutritional requirements. We also recommend avoiding diets with high grain and seed content, as these can be high in fat and low in vital nutrients.Ā
- Vegetables: 1 cup of fresh vegetables per 2kg body weight daily. Examples of recommended vegetables include mustard greens, parsley, snow peas, romaine lettuce, dandelion greens and flowers, basil, bok choy, broccoli, carrot, celery, capsicum.Ā
- Fruits can be a delicious treat, however should be fed sparingly as they are often very high in sugar. Some examples of safe fruits to feed including apples, blueberries, melon, strawberries, papaya and banana
- NEVER FEED: Apple pips, avocado, potato, rhubarb, tomato leaves and stems, garlic, onion, shallots, chives, ivy, primrose, nuts, oats, cereals, chocolate, bread, seeds, wheat, any plant that grows from a bulb ā these plants are all potentially toxic to rabbits.Ā
HOW TO SET UP YOUR HOUSE FOR YOUR RABBITS
Living Space
Bringing a new bunny into the family is always such an exciting time, however before bringing them home we have to ensure they have an appropriate living space awaiting them. Cages are not a home in itself, but a part of a more extensive housing plan. Ideally each rabbit household should have a large cage like enclosure to provide a space to retreat to for some quiet down time or a safe haven for rabbits to return to if they should feel threatened. We recommend against cages with a wire floor as it is easy to rip toenails and injure feet, as well as predispose to conditions such as bumblefoot. It is also important to have a cage set up to contain our pet bunnies if it is dangerous for them to be out, or to isolate and contain a sick or unwell rabbit ā For example a bunny with a back injury will be required to be confined as it heals. The ideal size for any kind of confined space is approximately 3-4x the length of a stretched out adult rabbit ā this means that larger breeds will require more space. It is also an important factor to keep in mind when adopting a baby bunny, and keeping their predicted adult size in mind when setting up their cage.Ā
The second part of rabbit housing generally involves a larger pen or space, often involving some free roaming of the house or allocated rooms. This larger space should contain ramps, tunnels, toys and exercise equipment to keep our bunnies healthy and entertained. Boredom or lack of space can lead to further issues such as overeating and obesity, lack of exercise, digestive problems and destructive behaviours. Rabbits love to chew and if you donāt want them chewing on your favourite piece of furniture it is important to provide them with lots of things they CAN chew such as toys, cardboard or hay, to avoid unwanted gnawing behaviours.Ā
Rabbit proofing your house: If you are allowing your bunny to free roam the house it is important to ensure that all immediate dangers have been removed. One of the most common and immediate dangers to pet rabbits inside are electrical cords as rabbits LOVE to chew them! This can lead to cardiogenic shock. We recommend restricting all access to electrical cords, blocking off cords and outlets, or encasing the cords in a heavy-duty plastic. Carpet is another little known threat to rabbits that can have life threatening impacts if chewed ā rabbits have been known to chew and ingest large quantities of carpet fibres, which can obstruct their digestive tract requiring life saving surgery. Also checking any household plants to ensure they are not toxic to rabbits, and if you have any favourite plants you donāt want chewed consider moving them to a higher area.Ā
When allowing your new rabbit to roam for the first few times it is important to supervise them until they get used to their surroundings. Young and more athletic rabbits will try and jump over, under and inside furniture which may cause injury if they get suck.Ā
Companionship
Rabbits are very social animals and often crave the companionship of a bunny friend. Bonded rabbits develop very strong bonds, spending their days grooming each other, sleeping, eating and playing together, as well as supporting and protecting each other from any perceived dangers. Having a bunny friend will also help to keep them both entertained and mentally stimulated, reducing boredom and therefore destructive behaviours, as well as preventing them becoming bored, lonely and depressed which can result in a number of other health issues.Ā
It's important to note that not all rabbits will become friends. Many rabbit rescues will have bonded pairs available that are ready to be adopted together, so the introduction process is already done for you! If you are introducing a new bunny to the family with a pre-existing bunny, the initial introduction should be done in a slow and controlled manner. It may take some time for your bunnies to get to know each other and supervision is required to avoid any territorial fights.Ā
Rabbits will grieve the loss of a friend, so after a period of mourning we recommend always keeping them in pairs with a buddy.Ā
Grooming & Nail Trimming
Rabbits are generally very clean animals who pride themselves on their immaculate grooming behaviours ā however as a rabbit owner we do still have a responsibility to maintain their coat and keep them healthy. Different breeds of rabbits have different maintenance requirements, but generally speaking long hair breeds have a much higher maintenance schedule than their short haired friends.Ā
Long hair breeds require daily coat maintenance, however even short hair breeds require a weekly brushing and grooming routine to help maintain their coat and remove any loose hair. Some rabbits will find brushing, grooming and just handling in general a very stressful experience, so it is important to provide positive reinforcement during the process and start as young as possible to get them used to the process.Ā
Rabbits have very fine hair, so we recommend using a wide tooth comb to start with, followed by a fine-toothed comb, and finishing with a flea comb in the more intricate areas such as between the ears, under the chin and around the anus. Some people choose to clip their long hair breeds to ease the maintenance requirements, or trim the long hair with scissors that is at higher risk of getting soiled such as around the anus or scent glands. Using a soft brush may make the outer top layer of the coat look shiny and luscious, however these types of brushes often do not get through the entire coat and the under layers close to the skin may become matted. If your rabbits hair does become matted it is important to be extremely gentle and delicate when combing them out. Rabbit skin is very sensitive and easily injured. There are special tools available such as a mat splitter or mat rake that can make the process easier. In severe cases it may be best to visit a veterinary practice for the matts to be removed whilst anaesthetised.Ā
Rabbits shed their hair every 3 months, some sheds being heavier or lighter than others, and during this time may have higher grooming requirements. Rabbits love to groom themselves to stay clean and tidy, however if they have lots of loose hair that is not removed via brushing, they will lick and ingest these hairballs potentially leading to GIT obstruction requiring surgery, or death if not treated.Ā
Rabbits have scent glands under their chin and around their anus that can sometimes develop a brown build up of oily discharge. Using a wet Q-tip is a useful way of wiping and cleaning away any excess build up. Most rabbits do not enjoy getting wet (some do!), so having a bath can be a very stressful time for our bunnies ā if they do struggle and kick they can easily injure themselves, so as long as they are kept in a clean and sanitary environment with a regular grooming routine, rabbits do not usually require bathing with water. Rabbits are also very susceptible to hypothermia, so if bathing is necessary, it is important to keep them nice and warm during and afterwards.Ā
As well as maintaining their coat, rabbits require regular maintenance of their nails. They can grow very long and sharp ā particularly if they are not running, digging and burrowing as they would in the wild to naturally wear them down. Long nails can become very uncomfortable for our bunnies and cause gait abnormalities or issues with their paw pads. If you are unsure about how far to trim your rabbits nails we recommend taking small amounts, frequently. Dark coloured nails can be more difficult to see the quick then pink nails. If you do happen to cut the nail too short and the quick bleeds, styptic powder is available from most pet shops to coagulate the bleeding. Most veterinary clinics or rabbit rescues will be able to assist you with nail trimming.Ā
Outdoors vs. Indoors
Historically rabbits have been both Indoor and Outdoor pets ā however over recent years we have seen a huge shift towards indoor housing as we become more educated about the health benefits of keeping our pets safe indoors and away from the unpredictable dangers of outdoor living. It has been found that indoor rabbits generally have a longer lifespan than those that live outdoors due to being kept in a safer and more controlled environment, with regular human interaction, a stronger bond, and more prompt medical care.Ā
- Safety: One of the primary benefits of indoor housing is it keeps our pet bunnies much safer. The great outdoors poses many potential dangers including predators such as domestic cats and dogs, as well as wildlife such as snakes, birds of prey, foxes and wild cats that can cause significant harm to our rabbits. Having a hutch doesnāt necessarily stop these predators from entering through the mesh or knocking the cage over. Even if the predator does not gain access to our pet rabbits, just coming into contact with them can cause extreme stress to our pets. As rabbits are prey animals, any signs of danger will automatically send them into their āfight or flightā response with nowhere to escape. In some cases a scared rabbit will run back and forth or thrash trying to get away which could risk injuring itself or even the old saying ādying of frightā. Even if not severe at the time, small puncture wounds, bites or claw marks can become infected and potentially result in delayed fatality. Most predators are nocturnal species, most active at dusk and dawn, so if you do decide to keep your rabbits outside during the day, we HIGHLY recommend bringing them indoors at night time during the highest risk of predator attacks.Ā
- Environmental risk: Indoor housing allows for a controlled environment and temperature. Rabbits are extremely sensitive to harsh changes in temperature, and heat stroke or hypothermia can be life threatening. Unfortunately sometimes the weather and mother nature can be unpredictable, which meansĀ our pet rabbits are often exposed to the ever changing elements. Finding an outdoor area to house our pet rabbits that remains in the shade throughout the entire day as the sun moves can also be a challenge ā what is shady in the morning when we leave home may be in direct sunlight throughout the day. Other environmental risks that outdoor rabbits may be exposed to include things like toxic plants, pesticides, and Rabbit Haemorrhagic Disease virus (RHDV).Ā
- Health: Keeping our pets indoors generally allows for closer monitoring and early detection of any changes in their behaviour, appetite or bathroom habits. It is often easier to pick up on changes in urination or defecation during regular cage cleans and maintenance, as well as monitoring how much food is offered and eaten each day.Ā Ā
- Socialisation: Indoor bunnies tend to be much more socialised and more comfortable around human interaction. As a generalisation, indoor rabbits spend more time interacting with their human family, and can be often found lazing around watching tv of the evenings or waiting for vegetable scraps whilst preparing dinner. Just living in the same vicinity as humans creates a stronger bond for our bunnies as they get used to human behaviour and interaction, as opposed to spending most of their time outside in a hutch.Ā
- Parasites: Indoor rabbits have a much lower risk of contracting various different parasites, including fleas and mites, as well as more severe burdens such as becoming fly blown.Ā
Playing & Toys
Rabbits may be small animals but they have huge personalities! It is important to provide your bunnies with a variety of different toys to improve their mental stimulation, physical exercise, and social interactions. Toys provide an outlet to display natural behaviours such as chewing, gnawing, digging, burrowing and shredding, as well as keep the mind and body active with their curious and inquisitive nature. When rabbits get bored they can display some destructive behaviours such as chewing furniture and other household items ā so its best to provide them with items they CAN chew!Ā
Toys donāt have to be expensiveā¦. There are lots of great rabbit toys and interactive play items available which are a great addition to your rabbits home, however items such as cardboard boxes, cardboard rolls, shredded paper, stacking cups, balls, tunnels and baby toys are also great and affordable options! Hiding treats in toys can be a great way to encourage play, and creating things like āforage boxesā are always an all time favourite.Ā
It is important to rotate toys regularly or add in new toys frequently to keep your rabbit entertained and mentally stimulated.Ā
Handling
Always pick up gently and support their body weight, by scooping up under the chest, and then placing your other hand under the back legs as you lift the bunny off the floor.Ā
It is important to support the hind quarters when handling, as it is common to get spinal cord injuries that may be permanent or life threatening.Ā
Do not pick up a rabbit by their ears. It is best to handle them close to the floor so if they jump out of your arms, there is less space to fall and cause injury. Children should always be monitored closely when handling rabbits, and preferably sitting down on the floor.
Health Maintenance & Reproduction
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Vaccinations
In Australia we highly recommend protecting your pet rabbit by vaccinating them against the highly pathogenic Rabbit Viral Haemorrhagic Disease. There are currently 2 main strains of the virus present in Australia (RHDV-1, and RHDV-2), both of which have a very high morbidity and mortality rate for unvaccinated rabbits who contract the virus. Thankfully in Australia we now have vaccines available that covers both strains.Ā Ā
The current recommended vaccination protocol is for all kits to have their first vaccine at 10-12 weeks of age, after which, they will require an annual booster. All rabbits over 10 weeks of age should be vaccinated as soon as possible, and also receive a yearly booster.Ā
The vaccines are readily available in Australia, however we recommend calling your local vet or exotic vet clinic to ensure they have them in stock, and to book your vaccine appointment. Your vet will also perform a thorough health exam of your rabbit prior to their vaccination, which is a great yearly check up to ensure they are in optimal health.Ā
Find more information on Rabbit Viral Haemorrhagic Disease in the COMMON ILLNESSES part of the care guide.Ā
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Desexing
Both male and female rabbits are able to be neutered by veterinarians experienced in small mammal and exotic animal surgery. In males, this procedure is called ācastrationā and in females, a āspeyā, both of which involve surgically removing the reproductive organs of the rabbit. Apart from preventing unwanted pregnancies and prolific reproduction, there are many health benefits to neutering your pet rabbit, and this is why it is generally recommended by most veterinarians.Ā
One of the main health benefits of neutering your rabbit, is the reduced risk of reproductive cancers, involving the uterus, ovaries, testicles and mammary tissue. It may also help reduce several unwanted behavioural characteristics, such as aggression, humping, biting, and urine spraying.Ā
We recommend finding a veterinarian experienced in rabbit and small mammal surgery, who is familiar with the specific considerations of rabbit anaesthesia, surgery and pre/post operative care.Ā
Generally, you can expect your rabbit to be admitted to the veterinary surgery in the morning, and return home later that afternoon after the procedure. You will need to keep your rabbit quiet and rested following the procedure, and reduce excessive movement and activity, including jumping. You will need to keep your rabbit nice and warm after they return home from hospital, and your vet will likely provide you with some pain relief to give over the following days.Ā
We recommend contacting your veterinary clinic for more information on their pre and post op desexing care.Ā
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Pregnancy and Gestation
Rabbits reach sexual maturity around 4-8 months of age, and by this time should be kept in same sex groups, or with neutered companions to prevent unwanted pregnancy. Female rabbits are induced ovulators, which means they do not have a āheatā or set oestrus cycle like many other mammals, and the act of mating will bring on ovulation in a doe. This is one of the key reasons rabbits are such prolific breeders as they can ovulate and become pregnant at any time she comes into contact with an entire buck.Ā
The gestation period for rabbits is approximately 30-33 days, with an average litter size of 4-12 kits. Each kit will normally weigh between 30-80g, with smaller litters often resulting in larger young.Ā
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Weaning and Infant Care
Baby rabbits, otherwise known as kits, are born hairless, with their eyes closed. They generally live in a nest with mum for the first 3 weeks of life, before adventuring out into the world. Kits should be offered a similar diet to your adult rabbits, including unlimited hay and fibre, pellets, and fresh leafy greens and vegetables, in addition to suckling from mum.Ā
Kits and lactating doeās generally require a diet higher in calcium than that of adult rabbits, due to the high calcium requirements for bone growth and development, and milk production during lactation. You can purchase pelleted diets specifically formulated for young rabbits, as well as alfalfa hay (which is reserved only for young, pregnant or lactating rabbits).Ā
Kits are self sufficient and old enough to be weaned at 6 weeks old.
Common Illnesses
Rabbit Haemorrhagic Disease Virus (RHDV) is a type of calicivirus that is endemic in Australia. Initially this virus was foreign to Australia, however in 1991 was released into the Australian rabbit population as an attempt to control the wild āpestā rabbits from eating crops. Unfortunately virusās do not discriminate, and also affects our domesticated rabbit populations. There are two main strains of the virus, RHDV-1 and RHDV-2, and thankfully in Australia we now have vaccinations available to protect our pet rabbits.Ā
The virus is transmitted via direct contact with infected rabbits, contact with infected faeces or other bodily secretions, and also from vectors such as flies or insects that spread the virus. The virus is extremely stable, and able to remain active in the environment for months.Ā
Once a rabbit becomes infected, the virus causes inflammation of the liver leading to liver failure and bleeding disorders, often resulting in death. Lesions can also be found in other internal organs such as the lungs and heart.Ā
Rabbits who become infected unfortunately have a very high mortality rate, most passing away within 36hrs of infection. Some rabbits do not display any clinical signs prior to death, and are often found deceased with bloody discharge from their nose or genitourinary tract. Other rabbits may show signs such as being lethargic, depressed, not interested in eating, discharge from their eyes and nose, mental dullness, tremors or seizures, with incoordination or trouble breathing.Ā
Kits less than 8 weeks old tend to fight the virus very well and are not as severely affected as their adult counterparts. Most will develop a life long immunity to the strain of the virus they were infected with.Ā
Myxomatosis is an extremely contagious virus affecting members of the lagomorph (rabbit family), endemic in several countries across the world. The Myxoma virus was released into Australia in 1950 in an attempt to control the wild pest rabbit populations, however unfortunately virusā do not discriminate and our domesticated pet rabbits are also at risk of contracting the virus. Due to various mutations of the virus over the years, our wild rabbit populations have acquired some degree of immunity due to frequent exposure that our pet rabbits have not, resulting in a >95% fatality rate in our pet rabbits.Ā
Myxomatosis is contagious and easily transmitted through direct contact with an infected rabbit, however can also be transmitted via contaminated objects such as food, bedding and water bottles to name a few. The Myxoma virus is also spread via biting insects, such as mosquitoes, flies, fleas and mites, and can quickly spread from one area to another. This means that our pet rabbits can still become infected even without contact with other rabbits.Ā
When rabbits become infected, some will display very obvious and severe signs of being unwell, whereas other rabbits may only show mild or no symptoms prior to death. Some of the symptoms of Myxomatosis include red and swollen eyelids, eyes, nose lips and face, discharge from eye eyes and nose, skin nodules, lumps or purple spots on the skin, lethargy, weight loss, fever or reduced appetite, and finally difficulty breathing, extension of the head and neck, coma and death.Ā
Unfortunately due to the extremely high fatality rate, treatment is solitarily successful and euthanasia is often recommended to prevent prolonged suffering. If treatment is pursued, it is very aggressive and intensive, often consisting of hospitalisation and supportive care including warmth, assisted feeding, IV fluid therapy, antibiotics for secondary infection, pain relief, and isolation from other rabbits.Ā
Unfortunately there is no vaccination available in Australia to prevent infection with Myxoma virus. The best way to protect our pet rabbits is to limit the exposure by quarantining any new rabbits added to the family, and isolating any sick rabbits to prevent spread. Rabbits often become infected by biting insects such as mosquitoes so keeping them inside will limit their exposure, using insect screens and avoiding outside time in the early morning or late evening when insects are most active.
Stasis is a very common condition suffered by rabbits, and can be both a primary condition, or a secondary condition due to another underlying illness. Generally, rabbits are more susceptible to developing GI stasis when they stop eating completely, are not eating properly, or their diet is low in fibre ā resulting in a slowing or ceased motility of ingesta through the gastrointestinal tract.Ā
If you suspect your rabbit is suffering from GI stasis, veterinary care should be sought asap as it canĀ be a life threatening condition. In the meantime we recommend always having fresh food and water on offer, including lots of fresh leafy greens.Ā
Burgess Dual Care or Oxbow Critical Care are both great products high in fibre and nutrients, specially made to be mixed into a water slurry and syringe fed to your rabbit until it is eating normally on its own. It is important to follow the recommended mixing guide on the back of the packet, or follow the advice from your veterinarian, to ensure it is mixed to the correct concentration and fed to the correct quantity. The packet will have a recommended feeding guide, and small frequent meals will be best way to kick start your rabbits GIT again. If your rabbit is completely anorexic, your vet may advise to only feed about 1/3 of their recommended quantity per day and work up to their full caloric requirement over a few days.Ā
Although it is important to get nutrition into your rabbit and stimulate their digestive system, there are several risks associated with hand feeding, and the process should be done slowly and carefully. It is very important not to force feed too much or too quickly, as your rabbit may aspirate the liquid formula, resulting in life threatening pneumonia. If your rabbit is also getting stressed during the hand feeding process, it may be best to discuss placement of a nasogastric tube or oesophageal tube with your veterinarian, to assist with hand feeding and minimise stress, as stress may delay recovery. Depending on your rabbits underlying health condition, your vet may also prescribe some pain relief, as a painful rabbit will not eat.Ā
*We always recommend visiting your veterinarian if your rabbit is unwell, and this advice does not replace that of a veterinary consultation*
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